全自動咖啡機二三事

 

在研究 Italian Espresso System(IES)之後重新引起對全自動咖啡機的興趣,並且恍然大悟,原來坊間全自動咖啡機沖煮出來的咖啡品質不佳,普遍是缺乏相關知識所致。其實,全自動咖啡機也能煮出美味的義式咖啡!

初步心得:

1. 只適合 IES 系統,不適合 SES(Seattle Espresso System) 系統
全自動咖啡機普遍根基於 IES 系統特性而設計製造,如果硬要按照 SES 特性去沖煮,一定會付出一些代價。輕則沖煮效果不良、縮減機器壽命,重則可能導致卡機甚至故障。

想用全自動機煮出道地的義大利式咖啡?沒問題。

想要煮出濃稠膏狀的西雅圖式 Espresso?不行,請選擇以 SES 理論基礎為核心創造出來的半自動咖啡機,如美製 Synesso Cyncra, Slayer。

2. 流速、劑量直接影響沖煮效果
全自動咖啡機可以利用某些沖煮變數(如劑量、流速)來快速調整沖煮屬性。了解理論並且充分掌握之後就能得心應手,能夠快速地調整出適合每個人不同喜好的咖啡。

3. 水溫宜低不宜高
因為全自動咖啡機的結構與沖煮特性皆為 IES 系統,因此低水溫沖煮可得到最佳效果。

較高檔次的全自動咖啡機可以設定沖煮水溫,由於本地消費者喜愛偏燙的咖啡,機器販售廠商往往將水溫設定於最高溫度,結果導致沖煮效果不盡理想。其實只要將水溫設定於較低溫度(*註1)即可快速改善杯中風味。

4.  沖煮寬容度高,但是對於咖啡豆要求嚴格
全自動咖啡機對於沖煮條件寬容度很高,意味著你在合理範圍內可以使用各種不同的劑量、水溫、壓力、流速、萃取率,皆能煮出讓大多數人都能接受的結果。沖煮寬容性高其實是 IES 系統的先天特色,與沖煮寬容度窄小的 SES 系統成為強烈對比。寬容度高的特性給予 Barista 極大的沖煮彈性空間,在商業場合也具有很大的實用性及便利性,唯一不可妥協的條件是必須選用合適的咖啡豆(*註2)。

我們將適合 IES 沖煮的咖啡豆稱為「IES compatible(IES 相容)」。這種類型的咖啡豆具有 IES 的表徵與內涵,適合 IES 硬體設備及沖煮文化,也是全自動咖啡機能夠煮出美味咖啡的最重要關鍵。唯有「IES 相容」咖啡豆才能與全自動咖啡機完美結合。

5. Barista 依然重要
由於全自動咖啡機的沖煮彈性極高,具有很大的調整彈性,掌握與拿捏杯中風味的人-Barista 依然是吧台內的主角。況且全自動咖啡機也有很多相應的 Barista 技巧,還是需要一個瞭解機器、瞭解豆子、瞭解客人喜好的「人」來主導與操作一切!無論機器科技如何進展,人的價值還是不可被取代的。


註1:IES 的建議沖煮水溫為攝氏88度上下。以義大利 DeLonghi 全自動咖啡機為例,ESAM 3500及 6600/6700 具有電子溫控功能,可調整沖煮水溫,請將水溫設定於 “Warm”。

註2:事實上全自動咖啡機對於咖啡豆的要求條件頗嚴格,並非所有咖啡豆皆適合全自動咖啡機。坊間很多難以入口的咖啡是來自於「用錯豆子」的全自動咖啡機。「用錯豆子」並不是指使用到「不好的」咖啡豆,重點是「不適合」!只要你用錯咖啡豆(非IES相容),任憑你如何調整沖煮參數、調到地老天荒,你的全自動咖啡機也無法煮出一杯兼具美味、甜滑、順口、飽滿、回甘、與平衡的義式咖啡。

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